Introducing wooden sign # 2 – Stenciling!
If you think way back (or simply look at my last post from
May) you will remember that I left a To
Be Continued picture of some leftover pink paint. Here is what I did with that pink paint.
I know what you’re thinking, “Stenciling, really? You haven’t stenciled before?” And in actuality, no I have never stenciled. I have seen it demonstrated, I have read
about it, but I have never tried it out for myself. So here we go…
Technique
Stencil: a thin
sheet of material, such as paper, plastic, or metal, with letters or a design
cut from it, used to produce the letters or design on an underlying surface by
applying pigment through the cut-out holes in the material.
This Wikipedia
description goes into much further detail and if you’re interested in their
more in-depth definition click on the link below.
There are lots of good tutorials on the web to help you get
started. A simple Google search will
yield any number of sources for stenciling.
Now you can purchase any number of plastic stencils at most craft stores
and I have some in my craft room.
However, I wasn’t really inspired by anything I saw so I decided I would
make my own stencil for this project.
Materials
Pre-cut wooden sign
Sand paper
Soft cloth
Pre-cut craft wire hanger
Paint (in a variety of colors)
Stencil brush
Assorted paint brushes
Pencil
Plastic stencil -OR- Piece of cardboard (plastic if you have
it) to make your own
Exacta knife
Cutting mat
Masking tape or painters tape
Additional embellishments
Hot glue gun
Side cutter
Needle nose pliers
STEP #1:
As with the previous signs, you should prepare
your surface for painting. Lightly sand
any rough spots on your wooden sign using a medium grit sand paper. Remember to sand in the direction of the
grain. Take a soft cloth and wipe away
any remaining dust. Even if you purchase
a pre-fabbed wooden item, it’s always a good idea to give it one last sanding
before painting.
STEP #2:
Paint a base coat on your wooden
sign. I do recommend that you paint all
sides and ends of the wooden sign with your base coat. Remember this little picture?
Well, I immediately painted this wooden sign after I had
finished my last project so it was already dry and ready to go when I finally
got around to working on this stenciling project.
STEP #3:
Time to make my stencil. Trace or draw
the image you will be stenciling onto a piece of cardboard or plastic. If you want one continuous image simply trace
the outline. But if you want more
definition in your image remember to create “connector” lines to add some “white”
or unpainted spaces inside of your image.
“How did you decide what image to use?” After some deliberation as to the content of
this particular sign, I decided I would work with one of my favorite subjects –
shoes! Believe me deciding which shoe to
use was no easy task with the multitude of footwear styles and designs out
there. I created a little inspiration page
with images of shoes that I liked or I thought would be easy to draw. Then after mulling them over for a while I
narrowed my choices down to three. I
printed them approximately the size I needed for my sign and cut them out and
tried them on the wooden sign. Low and
behold one image seemed the best option to me.
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| You can see the "connector" lines I created adding depth to my image. |
STEP #4: Using an Exacta knife cut the image from the
cardboard or plastic. Always protect
your work surface by using a cutting mat.
Be very careful not to cut any “connector” lines.
STEP #5: Tape your stencil to your sign so it will not
shift as you paint and to cover up any parts of the stencil you may not want
painted.
“Wait
a minute your sign is really small. How did
you tape your stencil down?”
Well, I actually wasn’t able to tape my stencil in place. I had to hold it very firmly as I
worked. If you are stenciling a large surface,
like a wall for instance, taping the stencil in place is much easier and
definitely more helpful on a vertical surface.
“Why
are using a plastic stencil? I thought
you just made your own stencil out of cardboard?” Yep, I did make my own stencil for the main
image, but I also wanted some light stenciling in the background so I chose to
use part of one of my plastic stencils from my stash.
STEP #6: Load your stencil brush with some paint and
take a paper towel or other soft cloth and blot off any excess paint by bouncing
the brush up and down onto the paper towel.
You should have very little paint left on the brush. Note, do not pre-wet the brush as this will
cause the paint to be a little runny and possibly leak underneath your stencil.
STEP #7: Position your stencil and bounce your stencil
brush up and down over the section of stencil you wish to paint.
 |
| The nice thing about plastic stencils is they clean up easily. |
STEP #8: Let your paint dry before repeating any
additional layers.
“How
long should I let it dry?”
Because you are using very little paint it should not take long to dry
at all. I think my paint was dry in ten
minutes.
Layer number two…
Main image…
“WHOA! What happened?” As you can see
my main image using the stencil that I made did not come out so great. I did not notice when I was cutting, but I
partially cut one of my “connector” lines. So while I was painting the
connector line came completely loose and I ended up with paint where I didn’t
want it to be – YUCK! I also only had a
flat head or straight cut stencil brush that seemed to put a lot of pressure on the
stencil, the results of which I was not happy with. So next time I might buy one of the brushes
with a more rounded head to see if that will soften the blow, so to speak, as I
paint. Now I had to fix my messy
mistake. I simply broke out my regular
paint brushes and adjusted the image by hand.
 |
| I ended up using a fine paint brush and silver paint to adjust the image. |
STEP #9: Decorate! Any additional decorative painting
can be done at this time.
STEP #10:
Once you are happy with your decoration you can seal it using a thin coat of polyurethane
or other finish. This particular sign didn’t
POP enough for me without a finish, so I used a little Mod Podge to seal it.
STEP #11: Cut a piece of craft wire to the length you
would like your hanger using a side cutter.
Last time I used the whole length of the pre-cut wire I had, but it was
too long. So, this time I cut it with my
side cutter at 12 inches. This is the
perfect length for this size sign.
STEP #11: Bend the craft wire in a half
circle. Push each end through the holes
in the sign going from the back to the front.
Leave about 2 inches of wire hanging out the front. Bend the hanger up in the back so that the
wire is in line with the sign, creating a surface to “hang” from a nail.
“Your picture at the beginning shows beads on your
hanger. When do you put those on?” I took one end of the hanger out of the hole
in the sign, and then slid the beads on for embellishment. I also used my hot glue gun to glue a couple
beads on the front of the sign and secure the beads on the wire hanger.
STEP #12: Use the needle nose pliers to twist the 2
inches of wire in the front of the sign, creating a curly-q effect. And another sign completed!
This particular project, however simple it might have
seemed, was tougher than I thought it would be.
I would definitely recommend using plastic if you are going to create
your own stencils. The cardboard cut and
ripped too easily and it soaked up some of the paint which bled through a
little bit. But I also learned that it
is an art to load the proper amount of paint on your brush. This is definitely a skill that must be
practiced to be perfected.
Have you had any projects that seemed so simple in the
beginning but ended up a disaster? How
did you fix the mistakes? E-mail me at quiltedcowgirl@gmail.com and you
just might see your story on my “Ramblings”. Happy crafting!